Taking the air

It feels like a transfer of energy. Eat something that's only just been separated from its plant and you get a hit, not simply a depth of flavour but a ripeness that tastes almost alive. A carrot, lifted from the garden, soil roughed off with a glove, will fill the kitchen with a sweet and orangey scent that's completely absent from supermarket veg. I'm shameless at blagging fruit and veg from nearby friends. Repay them by helping them, baking a crumble, being good company. Be part of the season and autumn becomes a celebration and so much easier to bear.